Tilicho Peak expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7134m

Location: Western Nepal 28°41?04?N 83°48?16?E

Duration: 34 days

First Ascent: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder

Best Season: Autumn and Spring (fair weather in Nepal)

Accommodation: Guest house and Camping

Climbing Route: Northwest Face route

Grade: Mountaineering VI

Transportation: By Land

Group Size: minimum 02

Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Tilicho Peak 7134 m is a mountain in Manang district of Nepal, near Annapurna. Tilicho peak is considered difficult and challenging climbing. To climb Tilicho peak, climbers need good physical fitness and technique. So, this expedition is a perfect option for adventure-seeking climbers to gain the ultimate climbing experience of Tilicho Peak.

The peak was first seen by Europeans in 1950 by members of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition led by Maurice Herzog, who were attempting to find Annapurna. The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.

The trekking route starts from Besi sahar, it is a caravan route for Annapurna circuit until Manang. A one-day rest in Manang then trek to Tilicho base camp where it is possible by lodge/guest house. The base camp is located near Tilicho Lake at, 4800 m high. It takes a few days rest for acclimatization at this base camp. The camp 1 at 5800 m is located a long way distance through the ridges of the mountain. It is a little bit hard to reach and climb on camp 1. From there also the panoramic view of Tilicho lake down below can be seen. Camp 2 is located at a height of approximately 6200 m and is more difficult to reach at this point. We should use the fixed rope on the way to reach camp 2. The elevation is about 40 Degree slope. From camp 2, the way directly goes to the Top of the Tilicho peak; and the climbing is a little bit hard with an elevation of 60 degree up towards the top Tilicho peak. Sometimes there are chances of an avalanche, so the team should be careful at this time to go ahead climbing. By the end of reaching the top, the ridge is a little bit difficult to climb.

Day 01: Kathmandu - Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel (B).

Day 02 and day 03: Kathmandu - preparation days, official briefing by Tourism, overnight at hotel (BB).

Day 04: BesiSahar - Travel to Besi Sahar 800 m by local bus/Car/Van 5/6 hours overnight Hotel (B/L/D).

Day 05: Chame - Drive to Chame 2740m 5-7 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 06: Pisang - Trek to Pisang 3115 m 4 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 07: Manang - Trek to Manang 3450 m 4.30 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 08: Manang the rest for Acclimatization (B/L/D).

Day 09: Khangshar village 3765 m, 5 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 10: Tilicho base camp 4800 m, 4.30 hours, overnight hotel/Camp (B/L/D).

Day: 11 to Day 28: Tilicho peak 7134 m expedition climbing period, overnight at tented camp (B/L/D).

Day 29: Tilicho base Camp to Khangshar village 3800 m, 6 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 30: Khangshar village to Pisang 3100 m, 5-6 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 31: Pisang to Chame (2740 m), 5 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 32: Chame to Besi Sahar 830 m continues to Kathmandu by Jeep/Bus, transfer to hotel (B/L/D).

Day 33: Extra day in Kathmandu, welfare dinner, overnight ta hotel (B/L/D).

Day 34: Departure from Nepal or next trip (B).