Saipal Expedition

Mt. Saipal 7031 m is the second-highest peak in Western Nepal with its elevation of 7031 m above sea level. The region is less known, remote, off the beaten, exotic scenery, scenic of much snow capped peaks, the paths of rocky land, jungles, self-western biodiversity of Nepal, unique trans-Himalayan plateau, rocky cliffs, adventurous, difficult and different; can be touched with heavenly feelings. In this trek, we explore the hidden highland valleys of Humla and take you in the lap of Mt. Saipal 7031 m.

The first known attempt on Saipal dates back to 1953 when Austrian Dr. Herbert Tichy tried to climb the mountain. A Japanese Expedition made the first ascent of Saipal in 1963. Katsutoshi Hirabayashi and Pasang Phutar reached the summit from the south side on October 21st. More summits were reported in 1985, when members of a Spanish expedition climbed the mountain from two routes, West ridge and Southwest face. After failed Austrian and Swiss attempts in 1987 and 1988, two teams made the first ascent of Saipal via NE ridge in 1990. Frenchman Jacques Montaz and Tendi Sherpa reached the summit on October 26. Two days later, Austrian Kroll, German Matthias Mross and Ang Choppel Sherpa also made it to the top.

We access to Simikot by 55 minute flight from Nepalgunj, a hub city of western Nepal. Then following the Humla Karnali river gorges, we trek through Thakuris, and Bhotia villages, (Dharapori, Kermi, and Yalbang) by witnessing their rhythm of life. From Yalbang the trail switches north to Chala and to Karan Khola valley-Northern Saipal Base Camp.