Saipal Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7031m

Location: Far Western Nepal

Duration: 30 days

First Ascent: A Japanese Expedition made the first ascent of Saipal in 1963.

Best Season: Autumn and Spring (fair weather in Nepal)

Accommodation: Guest house and Camping

Climbing Route: North side

Grade: Mountaineering IV

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Nepaljung /Simikot)

Group Size: minimum 02

Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Mt. Saipal 7031 m is the second-highest peak in Western Nepal with its elevation of 7031 m above sea level. The region is less known, remote, off the beaten, exotic scenery, scenic of much snow capped peaks, the paths of rocky land, jungles, self-western biodiversity of Nepal, unique trans-Himalayan plateau, rocky cliffs, adventurous, difficult and different; can be touched with heavenly feelings. In this trek, we explore the hidden highland valleys of Humla and take you in the lap of Mt. Saipal 7031 m.

The first known attempt on Saipal dates back to 1953 when Austrian Dr. Herbert Tichy tried to climb the mountain. A Japanese Expedition made the first ascent of Saipal in 1963. Katsutoshi Hirabayashi and Pasang Phutar reached the summit from the south side on October 21st. More summits were reported in 1985, when members of a Spanish expedition climbed the mountain from two routes, West ridge and Southwest face. After failed Austrian and Swiss attempts in 1987 and 1988, two teams made the first ascent of Saipal via NE ridge in 1990. Frenchman Jacques Montaz and Tendi Sherpa reached the summit on October 26. Two days later, Austrian Kroll, German Matthias Mross and Ang Choppel Sherpa also made it to the top.

We access to Simikot by 55 minute flight from Nepalgunj, a hub city of western Nepal. Then following the Humla Karnali river gorges, we trek through Thakuris, and Bhotia villages, (Dharapori, Kermi, and Yalbang) by witnessing their rhythm of life. From Yalbang the trail switches north to Chala and to Karan Khola valley-Northern Saipal Base Camp.

Day 01: Arriving in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, evening group meeting, overnight in Kathmandu hotel.

Day 02-03: Preparations days in Kathmandu, official briefing by Nepal Tourism Department, check equipment etc.

Day 04: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj flight, overnight Nepaljung 150 m, hotel.

Day 05: Nepaljung to Simikot flight 2818 m, overnight at hotel.

Day 06: Trekking Simikot to Dharapani 2360 m, overnight at hotel/Lodge.

Day 07: Trekking Dharapani to Yuwang (Yalbang) 3860 m, overnight at hotel/Lodge.

Day 08: Trekking to Choila/chala, overnight at camp or basic lodge.

Day 09: Follow the Karangkhola to go North base camp, Trek to Kairang overnight at camping.

Day 10: Kairang to Saipal Base Camp 4800 m, overnight at camp.

Day 11: to Day 22 Climbing period of Saipal Himal 7031 m, overnight at camps and upper camps.

Day 23: Saipal Base camp to trek to Labuk Depsa, overnight at camp.

Day 24: Trek to Chala Village or Yalbang, overnight at lodge/Hotel.

Day 25: Trek to Kermi, overnight at hotel.

Day 26: Trek to Maj gaun, overnight at hotel.

Day 27: Trek to Simikot, overnight at hotel.

Day 28: Flight to Nepalgung and to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel, overnight at hotel.

Day 29: free day - rest and relax, overnight at hotel.

Day 30: Departure from Nepal or next trip or rest in Kathmandu as your schedule.