Nepal Mera Peak Climbing

Nepal Mera Peak Climbing

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 6470m

Location: Khumbu Valley, Solukhumbu District of Nepal

Duration: 20 days

First Ascent: J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing on 20 May 1953.

Best Season: Spring and autumn season

Accommodation: Hotel/lodge and Camping

Climbing Route: North-west side

Grade: Mountaineering I

Transportation: By flight to/from Lukla

Group Size: Min. 01

Major Activity: Trekking and climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Mera peak is the highest of the trekking peaks in Nepal. The 6470 m high altitude do make up for the less technical skills required hence good training and preparations, physically and mentally is required for this climb.

Mera peak the first ascent was on May 20, 1953, by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing (who was known by the nickname. Mera North is believed to have first been climbed by the French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills in 1975. In 1986 Mal Duff and Ian Tattersall made the first ascent of the south-west pillar. The route is approximately 1,800 meters (5,900 ft) in length and graded at ED INF.

The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult, technical routes. Mera Peak provides the 360-degree panoramic views of 5 world highest mountains over 8000 m: Mount Everest (8848 m), Kangchenjunga (8586 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Makalu (8485 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m) as well as many other peaks of Khumbu Region.

The best season for climbing Mera Peak in Nepal is from March to May (Spring) and from September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well-prepared for the cold weather.

Asian Hiking Team operate Nepal Mera Peak Climbing starts from Lukla all the way to Pach Pokhari, after the push summit return through the Zetrala pass then flight to Kathmandu. Nowadays, it is also the best way to directly drive from Kathmandu to Salleri and trekking into Mera Peak base camp through Panch Pokhari, climbing and returning over the Zetra La pass then flying from Lukla.

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu (1340 m), transfer to Hotel, overnight Hotel (B).
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing, overnight at hotel (BB).

Start Trekking 17 days
Day 03: Fly to Lukla & trek to Paiya (2730 m), overnight at lodge (B/L/D).
Day 04: Trekking across the river and over a ridge to Panggoma (2,846 m), overnight at guest house (B/L/D).
Day 05: Trekking a monastery, lush forests and Mera peak views as you trek over the Panggoma La pass to Nashing Dingma (2,600 m), overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).
Day 06: Trekking a steep climb over the Surke La pass and forest camping at ChalemKharka (3,600 m), overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).
Day 07: Trekking Chalemkharka to KholaKharka (4,200 m), overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).
Day 08: Rest day in Kholakharka, (B/L/D)
Day 09: Trekking to descent into the Hinku Valley and Kothe (3,550m), 5-6 hours (B/L/D).
Day 10: Trekking to Tangnag (4,360 m), overnight at guest house (B/L/D).
Day 11: Trekking to Khare (5,100 m), overnight at guest house (B/L/D).

Climbing Period
Day 12: Khare Camp - Rest day for acclimatizing and pre-training, (B/L/D).
Day 13: Khare Camp to High Camp 5800 m tented camping (B/L/D).
Day 14: High Camp to Mera Peak Summit (6654 m) return to High Camp or Base Camp , overnight Camp (B/L/D).
Day 15: Spare day (any mishap – either climbing or flight or weather or mountain sick or any you can use that day), (B/L/D).
Day 16: Khare/Base Camp to Kothe (3600 m), 5-6 hours, overnight Lodge (B/L/D).
Day 17: Kothe to Zerta La (Chetrala), overnight Lodge, 5-6 hours (B/L/D.
Day 18: Thuli Kharka to Lukla 6-7 hours, over Zertala pass, overnight at hotel in Lukla (B/L/D).
Ending Trekking

Day 19: Lukla to Kathmandu by flight, then transfer to Hotel (BB).
Day 20: Last minute, transfer to Airport for your onward journey or next trip (B).