Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 6460m

Location: Khumbu, Nepal (27°42?33?N 86°52?06?E)

Duration: 16 days (13 days trek includes climbing)

First Ascent: J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing on 20 May 1953.

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Guest house and Camping

Climbing Route: North-west side

Grade: Mountaineering I

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size:

Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Mera peak (6470 meter) is one of the more famous “Trekking Peaks” in Nepal. Mera Peak is in the east part of Nepal, which is east of Lukla. The ascent is not technically demanding, but unequaled views of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu will more than satisfy your aspirations.

The first ascent of Mera Central was on May 20, 1953, by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing. Mera North is believed to have first been climbed by the French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills in 1975. In 1986 Mal Duff and Ian Tattersall made the first ascent of the south-west pillar. The route is approximately 1,800 meters (5,900 ft) in length and graded at ED INF.

The standard trekking and climbing route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult, technical routes.

Mera Peak provides the 360-degree panoramic views of five of the world's highest mountains over 8000 m: Mount Everest (8848.86 m), Kangchenjunga (8586 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Makalu (8485 m) and Cho Oyu (8201m) as well as many other peaks of the Khumbu Region.

Lukla airport is the commencement point of Everest trekking. It is also the starting point of the Mera trek and climb. It takes 6–8 days to reach Mera Peak Base Camp from Lukla. The Mera Peak trekking approach leads through traditional Sherpa villages in Solu Khumbu and the pristine rhododendron, oak, silver fir, birch and Juniper forests. On the way you can see Mera Glacier and a beautiful alpine lake.

There are two routes to reach Mera base camp, one over Zatra-La pass to reach Khare Camp, which is the¨shortest way¨. Another is to visit Panch Pokhari (Chelemkharka) through Panggoma pass, then trek to Khare Camp. It is also possible to start trekking from Salleri or Jiri. If you start trekking from Salleri you need an additional three days and from Jiri you need 5/6 additional days. The longer routes benefit better acclimatization and fitness for the climb.

Asian Hiking Team organizes all aspects of the Mera Peak climbing itinerary that starts from Lukla all the way to Khare Camp over the Zetra La pass, 4600 m, then summiting Mera Peak and returning the same way.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu (1340 m), transfer to Hotel, overnight Hotel (B).

Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing, overnight at hotel. (BB).

Start Trekking

Day 03: Fly to Lukla & trek to Chhutanga (3450 m), overnight at lodge (B/L/D).

Day 04: Chhutanga to Zatra La Pass 4600 m to Thuli Kharka, Overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 05: Thuli Kharka to Kothe 3680 m, Overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 06: Kothe to Thangnag 4355 m, overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 07: Thangnag to Khare Camp 5095 m, overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 08: Khare Camp - Rest day for acclimatization and pre-training, (B/L/D).

Start Climbing

Day 09: Khare Camp to High Camp 5800 m tented camping (B/L/D).

Day 10: High Camp to Mera Peak Summit (6470 m) return to High Camp or Base Camp, overnight Camp (B/L/D).

Day 11: Spare day (any mishap – either climbing or flight or weather or mountain sick or any you can use that day).

Day 12: Khare/Base Camp to Kothe (3600 m), 5–6 hours, overnight Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 13: Kothe to Zatra La (chetra-La), overnight Lodge, 5-6 hours (B/L/D.

Day 14: Zatra La (chetra-La) to Lukla 6–7 hours, overnight Lodge (B/L/D.

Ending Trekking

Day 15: Lukla to Kathmandu by flight, then transfer to Hotel (BB).

Day 16: Last minute, transfer to Airport for your onward journey or next trip (B).