Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 8463m

Location: Sankhuwasabha, Nepal (Makalu Baruntse National Park)

Duration: 51 days

First Ascent: J. Franco's French Expedition, the climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray, 1955

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Western routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Road and flight

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Makalu is one of the harder eight thousand meter Mountains. It is one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Mt. Makalu is a little bit dangerous as well. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.

Mount Makalu was first climbed by a French team in 1955. The West Face of Mt. Makalu was successfully scaled in 1997.

Makalu has many interesting routes leading to the summit via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress. The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge; it requires some fixed rope set-up.

Traditionally there are 3 camps, C1 (6,500 m), C2 (7,300 m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and C3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge. With very low Base Camp, the Advance Base Camp is set up at 5500 m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Makalu has climbed Alpine style, but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.

The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit. Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 m to 6100 m and from 6500 m to 7500 m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has seldom been attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600 m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: - Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel, overnight hotel (B).

Day 02: To Day 03: – Preparation day in Kathmandu - On this day you will be briefed by our guide about expeditions in the Tourism ministry (BB).

Day 04: – Kathmandu to Tumlingtar 510 m, 40 minutes by flight (B/L/D).

Day 05: – Tumlingtar to Num (1500 m) by Jeep 5 hours drive, overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 06: – Num to Seeduwa (1540 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 07: – Seduwa to Tashigaon (2070 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 08: – Tashigaon to Khongma (3560 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 09: – Khongma to Mumbuk (3550 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 10: – Mumbuk to Nghe Kharka (3750 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 11: – Nghe Kharka to Shersong (4610 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 12: - Rest day for acclimatization, (B/L/D).

Day 13: – Shersong to Makalu Base Camp (5050 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 14: To Day 43: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m), Overnight in Tented Camp, (B/L/D).

Day 44: – Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka (3600 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 45: – Yangle Kharka to Kongma la (3560 m), overnight Lodge/Guest house, (B/L/D).

Day 46: – Kongma La to Seduwa (1540 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 47: – Seduwa to Num (1500 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 48: – Num to Tumlingtar(1840), By Jeep to Tumlingtar 5/ 6 hours drive, overnight in Lodge/Tea house, (B/L/D).

Day 49: – Tumlingtar to Kathmandu (1100 m), overnight in Lodge/Tea house (B/L/D).

Day 50: – Leisure in Kathmandu, overnight in hotel (BB).

Day 51: - Departure from Kathmandu (B).