Lhotse Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 8516m

Location: Tibet and Khumbu region of Nepal

Duration: 60 days

First Ascent: May 18, 1956, by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition

Best Season: Spring

Accommodation: Tented Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering VII

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 15

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Lhotse 8,516 metre (27,940 Ft) is the fourth-highest mountain in the world. Lhotse is part of Everest Massif. There are three summits of Lhotse; Lhotse South Col which is in Tibet side, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8414 m (27,605 ft) and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit of Lhotse 8,516 m is between Tibet and Khumbu region of Nepal.

The first climb of Lhotse was on May 18, 1956, by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition. Lhotse was not summit in 2014, 2015, or 2016 due to a series of incidents, however, it was submitted again in May 2017.

The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band, the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through the narrow "Reiss couloir" until the Lhotse main peak is reached.

After final preparations for the historic Lhotse Expedition in Kathmandu, Fly to Lukla and begin our Guest hours trek up the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp. We will establish our base camp at 5300 m at the foot of the notorious Khumbu Icefall before making our way to Camp 1 at 6200 m. We will climb to Camp 2 at 6,600 m smacks in the middle of the Western Camp up to the Lhotse face to Camp 3 at 7200 m. Camp 4, 7920 m located near South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: Yellow Bands, interlayer marble, Phyllite and semi-schist rocks and Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rocks; they are again set-up with fixed ropes. From camp 4 the route enters 500 m colors about 40deg along a mix of pack snow, ice and some rock.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet Asian Hiking Team staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation for Lhotse Expedition, overnight Hotel.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism, overnight Hotel.

Trekking Start
Day 04: Kathmandu to Lukla by flight then trek to Phakding, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 05: Phakding to Namche, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and explore around, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 07: Namche to Tengboche, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 08: Tengboche to Pheriche, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 09: Rest day in Pheriche, visit Dingboche day trip, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 10: Pheriche to Lobuche, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 11: Lobuje to Base Camp, overnight tented Camping.

Climbing period of Lhotse

Day 12 to day 52: Climbing Period of Mt. Lhotse 8516 m, overnight tented camping.
Day 53: Cleaning Base Camp and Preparation, overnight tented Camp.
Day 54: Base Camp to Pheriche, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 55: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar, overnight Hotel/Guest house.
Day 56: Namche Bazaar to Lukla and transfer to hotel.

End Trekking

Day 57: Early morning flight back to Kathmandu, then transfer to Hotel.
Day 58 and Day 59: Free days in Kathmandu, overnight Hotel.
Day 60: Last minute, transfer to the airport for your onward journey.