Dhaulagiri Expedition 2024

Dhaulagiri is bounded on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri River and on the southeast by Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri is the seventh-highest mountain in the world at 8,167 meters (26,795 ft) above sea level.

It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition. Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.

When the French got permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri, they chose Annapurna after making a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri in 1950. In 1953, a Swiss party failed, then an Argentine group tried, but failed one year later. And finally, the Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960, following a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over the Dhampus pass.

The French failed to climb the summit from the North-East Col, so their expedition was supported by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East Col at 5977 m. But the plane crashed just before the end of the expedition near Dhampus pass. The pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

Dhaulagiri Trekking starts from Beni bank of Kali Gandaki and Myagdi Khola seasonal road heading to Darbang, follow the Myagdi Khola westwards to Darbang and turn north on a tiny trail that leads through forests into the high country. Trekking trail leads to Italian Base Camp then heading to Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

The normal route is via Northeast Ridge, the original route climbed by a Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically, 4 upper camps will be set up for the climbing. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300 m, just to deposit the gear but it will not be used as an overnight camp due to avalanche danger. Hence, the Base Camp 4750 m will be used as Advance Base Camp for Accommodation and meal purpose. Camp 1, 5,900 m on the Col east from the ABC. Along this trail you will suffer some avalanche risk as well as crevasses danger. Camp 2, 6,400 m, which is reached from camp 1 with some steep climbing sections. The ropes shall be fixed, and you need some technical climbing experience with the support of your climbing Sherpa. You need 1 technical Ice Axe as usual. When you have private Sherpa, it is not mandatory to take 2 technical Ice Axes. One will work. Camp 3, (7400 m) will be located towards the west with steep ice and snow climbing along the ridge of the Mountain. Gradually, ups and downs will be done several times. You climb towards the East Ridge, where you likely experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 3. This is the most difficult part of the climb. From camp 3 we make a direct push for the summit and return to camp 3 if the conditions will allow us. With difficult conditions, the fallback is to set up Camp IV at 7,900 m in order to attempt another summit push the next day.