Baruntse Expedition 2024

Baruntse 7129 m is in the eastern part of Nepal. Situated close to Mt Makalu inside Makalu Barun National Park. It is remote and at the centre of three glacier valleys, the Imja, the Hunku and Barun.

Baruntse was first climbed May 30, 1954, via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Asian Hiking Team’s Baruntse Expedition plan would be to place two high camps on Camp 1, 6100 m and Camp 2, 6400m. A fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col, to safeguard our progress. To reach the summit usually takes 7–10 hours along a stunning and exposed ridge line with fixed ropes. Descent is by the same route, and we would hope to reach at least Camp 1 or Base Camp if you’re going well.

To reach Barunste Himal, we fly to Lukla then trek all the way to Khare through Sherpa settlements. We have an acclimatization climb to Mera peak 6470m and heading to Baruntse peak base camp. Baruntse Base Camp, 5300 m, is situated in a broad open valley on the side moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward. Fixed line is needed, however, to climb up the challenging 50° ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up Baruntse Camp I, 6100 m.

From Camp, I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6400 m.

From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45° ice wall to a small col, 6500 m. There are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000 m, that leads onto the summit ridge.

Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129 m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu. Asian Hiking Team itinerary through the Amphulaptse passes to reach Namche bazaar, then catches a flight to Kathmandu from Lukla.